Want to be in the right spot at the right time, every time? Then knowing how to read a surf forecast app for Perth is essential! Learn more about surf forecasting with Go Surf today.
If you want proof that we live in a marvellous age, you only need to look as far as mobile surf forecasting applications.
Seriously, it was only a few decades ago that you needed to see the waves with your own two eyes in order to determine whether it was worth paddling out.
Of course, we still use our eyes today, but thanks to online surf reports you can now scout surf spots in South America, Europe and Perth all in a matter of minutes (without even leaving your bed).
Yep... we've got it pretty good.
Although truth be told, surf report apps can be difficult to decipher. This is especially true if you're only new to surfing and aren't 100% up to date with the terminology.
With that in mind, we spoke with the local Perth surfing community about how to make reading an online surf report simple.
Here's what we came up with.
The benefits of using a surf forecast app
Any surfer will tell you that having the power to predict surf conditions is an absolute bloody godsend.
Besides the obvious fact that you can finally be that guy or girl telling other surfers in the carpark that they "should've been here yesterday", there are also a bunch of other benefits to using a surf forecast application, such as:
You can eliminate the need to waste time and petrol checking multiple surf spots
You're able to better plan your schedule given that you can actually see at what time of day the waves will be best
Contest directors can use surf reports to ensure that competitions are run in pumping surf
You'll be able to better understand your local surf spots
Forecasting apps make it easier to organise surf sessions with mates
3 beginner tips for reading a surf report
Before we launch into the key factors that make up surf reports, let's clear a few things up.
Tip #1: It's way simpler than you think
Like we mentioned earlier, pulling up a surf report application on your phone or desktop browser can seem daunting.
The good news is you only need to look at wave height, swell direction, wind strength and direction plus the tide for a beginner-level surf spot. As you get more experienced, you can then incorporate more technical surf forecasting data points into your calculations.
Tip #2: Surf forecasting isn't an exact science
If you're the type of person who checks the weather often, then you'll know that weather forecasts have a tendency to change.
Surf reports are no different.
In fact, they tend to be slightly more temperamental than over-land forecasts. Wind speed, swell height and wave direction can all shift overnight or the space of a few hours. This is why it’s important to constantly keep up to date with the surf report.
Tip #3: Not all surf report apps are created equal
You may notice that there are small differences between online surf report apps.
The reason for this is that these apps use data from different weather forecasting models to determine the conditions of a particular spot.
So while one forecasting app might use the Australian Community Climate Earth-System Simulator – Seasonal (ACCESS–S) model, another might use the Global Forecast System (GFS).
If you want our advice, check multiple surf report apps when figuring out where to surf. Our picks of the bunch for Perth include:
Seabreeze
Windy
Swellnet
The key factors that make up a surf forecast
Surf report applications make it infinitely less complex when it comes to scoring perfect waves.
In saying that, even the most user-friendly surf report can look like it's been written in hieroglyphics if you don't know how to read it.
But here's the thing.
Knowing how to read a surf report will allow you to discover where the best waves are breaking. And the more quality waves that you can ride, the faster you'll progress from beginner to intermediate and beyond.
Here are a few key things to look for when checking the surf report on your mobile or desktop browsers.
1. Wave height
Wave height refers to the size of a breaking wave at a particular beach.
The bigger this number is, the less likely it will be suitable for beginner surfers.
This means that when it comes to figuring out whether it's worth heading to the beach for a wave, wave height is one of the first markers you need to assess.
Wave height can also be different depending on whether the swell is generated by a ground swell or a wind swell, which you can read more about here.
Finally, note that wave height in Australia is recorded in metres.
2. Swell period
Swell period, which is measured in seconds, is the term given to the time difference between the crest (topmost point) of an unbroken wave and the wave behind it.
When it comes to reading swell period, you'll notice that the seconds can fall anywhere between the 0 - 20+ range.
Essentially, the higher this figure is, the more spaced apart the waves are and the more powerful the swell will be. Conversely, the smaller the swell period figure, the weaker the swell will be.
A swell period of 12 seconds and above on a surf report is considered to be good for reef breaks and point breaks.
On the flipside, that same 12 second or more period might also cause all but the most perfect beach break to close out.
3. Swell direction
Reported in degrees, swell direction indicates from which direction the swell is travelling from.
Swell direction, while arguably less important than swell height and wind direction for beginner surfers, can influence how good a surf spot will be.
A southwest swell direction is most common in Perth. Due to the Rottnest Island effect though, the swell must wrap around Rotto first before it reaches the southern beaches. This causes it to slow down and decrease in both size and intensity.
This means that southern beaches such as Leighton and Cottesloe are protected from massive swells and therefore better for beginners during the winter and autumn months.
On the flipside, if these beaches are too small, you can always head north to Brighton or Scarborough, which are both less affected by the Rotto swell shadow and therefore great during summer and spring when there are historically smaller waves.
You can read more about which beaches in Perth are best based on the swell direction here.
4. Wind direction/speed
While wave height is important, wind direction and wind speed also play a role in determining how good the surf will be.
Offshore wind, which is any wind that blows from the land out to sea, will groom the waves and make them easier to ride.
In Perth, the offshore usually comes from the east. Given the nature of the coastline and the fact that most beaches face slightly different directions, some may also work if the wind is either east or southeast (Leighton Beach) or east or northeast (Scarborough).
Onshore wind, such as the Freemantle Doctor (commonly known as the Freo Doctor) that blows from the sea towards the land, will make waves choppy and difficult to surf. On the plus side, this is an excellent direction for kite surfers.
You’ll also notice that cardinal (north, east, south, west) or intercardinal (northeast, southeast, southwest, northwest) directions are used for wind direction. Wind speed, on the other hand, has kilometres or knots as the preferred unit of measurement.
5. Tide
Finally, the tide is another key element to look for when viewing a surf forecast app.
Without going into too much detail, there are generally two high tides and two low tides per day.
Some beaches will be better on a low tide, while others will pump on a high tide.
As a rule of thumb, low tide normally creates shallow, dumpy waves. High tide, on the other hand, will make the waves fatter and slower.
In saying that, this is all dependent on the type of surf spot, so your best bet is to simply book a lesson with Go Surf if you want to learn the fundamentals of how tides work.
6. Sandbanks
One final thought that is often overlooked by many is sandbanks. If you are looking at surfing sand bottom breaks then the sandbank formation is an aspect that no surf forecast app or website can forecast or predict. The only way to know if there are well formed sandbanks is to look with your own eyes.
Many people forget the importance of this. Even if all of the other metrics mentioned above (wind, swell, tide etc) suggest that the surf should be firing…..if there are no sandbanks, it’s all wasted.
For more information on swandbanks and how they work, take a read of this article we wrote.
Learn how to read a surf report with Go Surf today
